We trudge up a steep, muddy path off the village's main street to get to a shabby, tiny brick house. A middle-aged man in dirty overalls stands at the far end of the garden, a chaotic mess of furniture and weeds. He is slathering white paint on a wooden shed, rubbing the sweat from his brow. “It's a tragedy,” Fehmi Maliqi, a soft-spoken farmer, says as he takes a seat on a creaky stool. He is referring to his nephew, missing since he left this poor community in the picturesque wooded valleys of eastern Kosovo.

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